Dual batteries

[Kimtown]

Blue Sea ADD A BATTERY Dual Circuit System
SKU: 84425

I have just installed this kit from Blue Sea after alot of research. Used it a few times local in WPB with everything going, and used it out about 20km out from Apollo Bay same with all electrics going without a problem. I think the isolation of this kit works really well.
One word of advice, dont scrimp on the quality of the 2B cable you use and solder EVERY connection.
Cheers,

Does this come with every required minus the battery? Or do you still need cables, terminator clamps, crimps etc.

[Mattblack]

Thanks Frozenpod.
Thanks Salted....can I ask what you paid for the kit? I find it hard to believe that Amazon is nearly 1/2 the price of Whitworths (or is this a prime example of why all retailers are in a panic about Amazon coming to Australia?!)

[purple5ive]

Make sure amazon is selling genuine item, look under the product comments to see what other buyers have said.
and yeah amazon will definitely cause an issue here for the local stores.

[frozenpod]

solder EVERY connection.

Why would you advise this?

[barra mick]

Go for dual batteries, it's a safety feature as much as a convenience. As frozenpod said, always have your motor running when you use your winch and it basically runs of the alternator and doesn't drain your battery. I up the idle revs to about 1500 when I'm upping the anchor and this keeps the battery voltage up around 13.8 which means the batteries are actually charging (not draining) while the winch is working. And it retrieves faster too.

Hey Skronkman,
I've followed yours and Frozenpod's advice and bought another battery (surprise-surprise, it was double the cost of a car battery). I re-read your advice on the VSR selector/isolator switch..... In simple terms, does this mean the VSR will automatically swap batteries when one runs low & will automatically charge both batteries without having to physically flick the switch?
Also, can anyone give me advice on what brand of VSR switch is best and where to purchase it? ...I found this one at Whitworths for $249 and what looks like an identical one on Amazon for $138.

Switch-Blue Sea.jpg

This is what I put in my boat.

Works great.

Charges my start battery first and isolates it so it diesnt go flat

Then it charges my 2nd battery.

Fantastic set up.

You can combine both batteries if you need

Bm

[blacklab99]

solder EVERY connection.

Why would you advise this?

Boy, I've been in the middle of this particular discussion a few times LOL( not with regards to boat wiring )
It is a good discussion point, with some recommending crimp and heat shrink, others solder.
AS a footnote, this same topic, with regard to classic/vintage bike restoration, concensus, crimping and heat shrink wins hand down, solder just
doesn't cut it on an old timer bike that vibrates like hell ! Even when done properly, there's always tears....
As for a boat, mine will eventually need completely doing in my restoration, so I shall watch and read every ones preferences,,, work out who seems more experienced, then pounce with a personal message and con them into wiring my boat !!!!!

[rb85]

solder EVERY connection.

Why would you advise this?

Boy, I've been in the middle of this particular discussion a few times LOL( not with regards to boat wiring )
It is a good discussion point, with some recommending crimp and heat shrink, others solder.
AS a footnote, this same topic, with regard to classic/vintage bike restoration, concensus, crimping and heat shrink wins hand down, solder just
doesn't cut it on an old timer bike that vibrates like hell ! Even when done properly, there's always tears....
As for a boat, mine will eventually need completely doing in my restoration, so I shall watch and read every ones preferences,,, work out who seems more experienced, then pounce with a personal message and con them into wiring my boat !!!!!

What about exothermic welding. :thumbsup:

[blacklab99]

" exothermic welding "
geeez, that's enough of that mate !

LOL

[barra mick]

Heat shrink is working fine on my boat.

I

[skronkman]

Hey Skronkman,
I've followed yours and Frozenpod's advice and bought another battery (surprise-surprise, it was double the cost of a car battery). I re-read your advice on the VSR selector/isolator switch..... In simple terms, does this mean the VSR will automatically swap batteries when one runs low & will automatically charge both batteries without having to physically flick the switch?
Also, can anyone give me advice on what brand of VSR switch is best and where to purchase it? ...I found this one at Whitworths for $249 and what looks like an identical one on Amazon for $138.

Switch-Blue Sea.jpg

Ok. Well I'll try and answer the questions I think I've read since my last post.
A vsr will only automatically charge your AUX battery when your start battery is already full. This doesn't require you to do any manual switching and means you can leave your battery selector switch on your start battery. Your boat will always start from the start battery and always charge your start battery first. When your start battery is charged it will automatically charge your AUX battery as well. If by chance your start battery fails you can use the selector switch to start from the AUX battery. It's up to you how you want to wire your AUX load (lights,radio,etc), I prefer to have it wired to the AUX battery so the only thing using the start battery is the motor starting. The VSR is only used in charging and will work from your alternator or your house charger. You will still need a battery selector switch even if you use a VSR.

I have had perfectly good results from using $40 no name VSR from eBay. I just looked and there is a 180amp NARVA model available for $50 including shipping. I can't comment on the fancy high end brands for boating like BEP, etc as I havent used them.

With wiring connections the general wisdom is not to use solder as the vibrations can cause the wire to break around the stiff joints. However I prefer to solder my joints and also use a bonding (water tight) heat shrink over the joint. This makes it water resistant (less corrosion) and reinforces the joint so the vibrations don't have as much effect at the actual joint. I have done my last 2 boats like this without any issues arising. It's also good to use tinned copper wire (more expensive) as this reduces corrosion too. Always use multi strand wire and never single solid core as this will break with continuous vibration/ movement.

Let me know if I've missed anything.