Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

smile0784
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by smile0784 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:55 am

Ozzy wrote:This is what I used to use on mine no water waste after flushing turn the tap on and let it drain to wherever you want . I don't use it anymore I live in Curlewis near Clifton Springs if your close or head near here couple of cans of southern comfort and it's yours
Thanks for the offer
Looks like a good idea

I donk think ill be able to get that under the leg.

Ozzy
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by Ozzy » Sun Feb 25, 2018 10:27 am

All I did was lift the engine enough to slide it under the leg then hook up the hose to fill it then flushed the engine . Once emptied I then lifted the leg enough to slide it back out

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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by skronkman » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:03 am

smile0784 wrote:
skronkman wrote:It will not work. The impeller needs to be submerged to work correctly. It won't draw the water up the hose.
Is the impella near where the muffs go on?
The impeller sits on top of the gearbox, where the bottom section comes away from the mid section. In the picture above you can see the join between sections about 150mm above the muffs. When your boat is in the water at standstill the impeller is under water (should be!) and being lubricated by the water, when you start your engine the impeller forces water up into the motor. Now the pump (impeller) is primed it can continue to suck up water so that when you are on the plane the impeller is actually above the waterline but still working (if your motor height is setup correctly and trimmed properly the top of the water should be just coming over the top of the cav plate).

Having said that, I know my Mercury will self prime when launching from the trailer and I only just have the cav plate submerged, so a lift of about 100-150mm from dry but this is not good for the impeller as it starts up dry and unlubricated for a few seconds, shortening the life of it so it's not good practice.

The muffs would not form a very good seal to the lower section so as not to allow air in when trying to suck in the water that is not being forced in via a hose on a tap. The added length of the lift required for the hose length from an unprimed impeller would also unlikely work to start sucking up the water. Even if you did get a good seal and it did generate enough lift you would still be starting your impeller dry until it could bring the water up to itself which is not great.

In short, make sure your impeller is flooded before starting the engine, either by submerging it or forcing water into it under pressure (or using the dedicated washout port provided by the outboard according to the instructions provided with YOUR outboard motor as they are not all the same)

skronkman
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by skronkman » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:10 am

4liters wrote:I know nothing about boats but wouldn't that just be cycling the salt you've just flushed out back though the motor?
If it did actually work then it would be similar to rinsing ina barrel of water of similar size, so yes you are putting some of the washed out salt back through the engine but it will be very diluted with fresh water. As washing in a barrel of water is pretty standard and people don't seem to be having problems with corrosion if they do it after a salt water immersion then I guess it's diluted enough to do the trick.

Texas
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by Texas » Sun Feb 25, 2018 11:54 am

Is it really worth the trouble to save a gallon or 2 ???
Study your water bill and you will find that the price for actual water usage is miniscule.
In saying that a mate always used a barrel, didn't like the muffs for some reason.
His tohatsu motor never had corrosion problems
Cheers Gra

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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by KeenAds » Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:19 pm

You can always lower the jockey wheel on your trailer so the back of the motor lifts up to give you more room to get the tank in and out. Thats what I ysed to do.

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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by Texas » Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:39 pm

KeenAds wrote:You can always lower the jockey wheel on your trailer so the back of the motor lifts up to give you more room to get the tank in and out. Thats what I ysed to do.
Exactly how my mate used to do it
Now you reminded me

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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by smile0784 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 3:59 pm

skronkman wrote:
smile0784 wrote:
skronkman wrote:It will not work. The impeller needs to be submerged to work correctly. It won't draw the water up the hose.
Is the impella near where the muffs go on?
The impeller sits on top of the gearbox, where the bottom section comes away from the mid section. In the picture above you can see the join between sections about 150mm above the muffs. When your boat is in the water at standstill the impeller is under water (should be!) and being lubricated by the water, when you start your engine the impeller forces water up into the motor. Now the pump (impeller) is primed it can continue to suck up water so that when you are on the plane the impeller is actually above the waterline but still working (if your motor height is setup correctly and trimmed properly the top of the water should be just coming over the top of the cav plate).

Having said that, I know my Mercury will self prime when launching from the trailer and I only just have the cav plate submerged, so a lift of about 100-150mm from dry but this is not good for the impeller as it starts up dry and unlubricated for a few seconds, shortening the life of it so it's not good practice.

The muffs would not form a very good seal to the lower section so as not to allow air in when trying to suck in the water that is not being forced in via a hose on a tap. The added length of the lift required for the hose length from an unprimed impeller would also unlikely work to start sucking up the water. Even if you did get a good seal and it did generate enough lift you would still be starting your impeller dry until it could bring the water up to itself which is not great.

In short, make sure your impeller is flooded before starting the engine, either by submerging it or forcing water into it under pressure (or using the dedicated washout port provided by the outboard according to the instructions provided with YOUR outboard motor as they are not all the same)

I thought the impeller was near the join.

I always put the hose on before i turn the motor over but forgot why lol.
It was just routine

smile0784
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by smile0784 » Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:01 pm

KeenAds wrote:You can always lower the jockey wheel on your trailer so the back of the motor lifts up to give you more room to get the tank in and out. Thats what I ysed to do.
With the tandam trailer amd winding the jockey wheel up and down i only get a difference of 200mm at motor end

KeenAds
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Re: Would this work? For saving water when flushing the motor.

Post by KeenAds » Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:35 pm

I used to raise the motor then lower it with the tank underneath.

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