Cooling down of bearings?

Post by **smile0784** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:03 am

Just wondering how long people wait for bearings to cool before they put there trailer into the water?

I just have problems with the rear bearings and
I was told by the mechanic that after driving a hour to the ramp you need to wait 30 mins for the bearings to cool down before reversing the trailer in.

Has anyone heard this before and
Just wondering how long most people weight before launching after driving there?

Post by **hornet** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 12:46 am

Pump up the bearing buddies just before dipping the trailer, the grease keeps the hubs pressurized so no water gets in. when you retrieve the boat to leave the bearings will be cold. Worked for me for years.

Post by **scott__henning** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 4:39 am

I pull straight in. If there bearings are getting hot enough to cause issues when submerging then time to re-grease it replace

Post by **Kimtown** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 5:08 am

Load of **** imo

Hosery · Post by **Hosery** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:09 am

Yeah I recon if they are that hot they need cooling before you back in they are shot and need repacking or replacing. When I get to a ramp by the time I put the bungs in, take tie downs off etc if the bearings were remotely hot they would of cooled by then anyhow. Waiting 30 mins before I can launch stuff that. That eating into my fishing time!

Post by **cheaterparts** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 7:13 am

smile0784 wrote:Just wondering how long people wait for bearings to cool before they put there trailer into the water?

I just have problems with the rear bearings and
I was told by the mechanic that after driving a hour to the ramp you need to wait 30 mins for the bearings to cool down before reversing the trailer in.

it's not just the bearings but the whole hub than had warmed up and of cause the ends of the axles - normal packed bearings have to have an air gap so as the hub + bearings warm air pressure inside the hub will rise and escape from the hub
seals are designed to hold grease in not pressure out and are running on a K1045 steel axle ( not hardened ) so will have wear marks quite early in it's life adding to the problem air will get through even when grease will not
so put this warm hub in water the air gaps inside the hub cool an the higher pressure of the water will push into the hub through the seal
even a small bit of water each trip will break down grease

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCV-daOu3Q4

now on top of the water just having air pressure acting on it to push water into the hub it also has it's own weight
any scuba diver will tell you you gain an atmosphere of pressure every 33 feet ( 30 meters ) so 14.7 psi / 30 = just short of 1/2 a psi for every meter the hub is under water at the ramp thats probably more difference that the air pressure difference between the warm air inside the hub and the outside air above the water

So as it has been mentioned bearing buddies the plunger pumped out against the spring tension in the B/Buddy lifts the pressure inside the hub - hopefully higher than the water pressure - this will hold the water pressure out even with warm hubs and bearings

of cause salt water and bearings don't go hand in hand - so a good water proof grease is always well worth it as are regular bearing checks

russellh2 · Post by **russellh2** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:06 am

If the hub and the end of the Axle are hot after one hours drive there is something seriously wrong - Lack of grease or faulty bearing before you started to drive.
I recently towed 13' tinnie from Albury to Cooma - 400Ks plus - Checked wheel bearings / hubs at Tumut - barely warm to touch / checked again at Cooma - still barely warm to touch.
Suggest that you remove all bearings from each axle as a set and clean of ALL grease with Degreaser then rotate each bearing and feel if they rotate smoothly and do not feel gritty.
If one bearing from an axle does not feel OK - Replace both inner and outer bearings
Do not mix old and new bearings.
When replacing each bearing make sure that you pack the entire bearing as well as the inside cavity of the Hub.
I use FUCHS RENOLIT XTB2 Extreme bearing Grease, is High Temp / Heavy Duty / Resists Water - I purchased 500g tub and carry it in the boat at all times.

ango · Post by **ango** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 1:04 pm

Probably too much preload on the bearings, back the nut of a bit and should be right.
Cheers
Ango.

Post by **smile0784** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 2:06 pm

russellh2 wrote:If the hub and the end of the Axle are hot after one hours drive there is something seriously wrong - Lack of grease or faulty bearing before you started to drive.
I recently towed 13' tinnie from Albury to Cooma - 400Ks plus - Checked wheel bearings / hubs at Tumut - barely warm to touch / checked again at Cooma - still barely warm to touch.
Suggest that you remove all bearings from each axle as a set and clean of ALL grease with Degreaser then rotate each bearing and feel if they rotate smoothly and do not feel gritty.
If one bearing from an axle does not feel OK - Replace both inner and outer bearings
Do not mix old and new bearings.
When replacing each bearing make sure that you pack the entire bearing as well as the inside cavity of the Hub.
I use FUCHS RENOLIT XTB2 Extreme bearing Grease, is High Temp / Heavy Duty / Resists Water - I purchased 500g tub and carry it in the boat at all times.

I always feel the hubs when i get to the ramp and they are cool or just off cool.
So thats whats confusing me.
My understanding is cool hubs = cool bearings

Post by **dazz999** » Sat Mar 17, 2018 3:16 pm

replace bearings and retainers pack bearings with good grease = no problems

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Cooling down of bearings?

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