Getting on with boat re-build

[Yota]

No worries Col, I've just installed a second battery and a VSR myself. I think the ACR and VSR are the same thing ?
But it's had me thinking about how the system will be used in practice.
Pre VSR I just isolated the one battery when the boat was finished with after a day out.
But now, thinking about it a bit, when I use the boat I will have to start the boat on battery 1, then manually switch to battery 2 when I anchor up and fish - to run stuff, live well pump, lights, sounder etc etc.
Then before I start er up I'll have to manually switch back to battery 1.
Then the VSR will charge battery 1 first then 2 as designed.
Seems like a bit of a rigmarole if you ask me.
But maybe I'm missing something simple ??
I'm good with electrical stuff, but only have "as I use it or do it" experience in marine stuff.
So if you have any help for me in that area it would be appreciated- hopefully this doesn't come across as a thread hijack
Just thought of this while you mentioned ACR,,

[blacklab99]

Hi Jamie, Your not hyjacking at all.
I had the same issues, before I decided to go with one, basically, it will automatically isolate your start battery, when stopped, to ensure you have enough juice to start, it's like a fail safe. It will combine automatically when charging, but isolate when it falls below a set level.
Now, this is all from memory, don't quote me. I'm going to get the blue seas model, there quality stuff, if maybe a tad more expensive.
If you google up BlueSeas VSR ACR, they have heaps of literature on them, which is a good read, you can probably make more sense of it than me. I don't think there's to much switching that goes on, it's set and forget from memory. The system itself dictates charging, it does charge both at once, but the sensors decide whether to isolate or not. I actually spoke to the supplier in Perth for BlueSeas, for about a half an hour and he went right thru it with me, the advantages etc. But Google up the BlueSeas gear anyway and see what you make of all the literature, I'd be interested to here your feed back.... I know the main thing for me, apart from the sensor charging, is that it's basically a fail safe for flattening your start battery, sensors won't let it drain below a certain voltage, so that indicates, it's a set and leave type set up..........

Col

[blacklab99]

Jamie, I made some notes after I spoke with the BlueSeas guy ( amazing)
Basically, it will mean you can flatten the house battery, but the start battery will be isolated to protect it.
It also eliminates and protects your electronics from spikes from the start battery.
I will do a fair bit of offshore and luv the night fishing, so effectively, you can flatten your house overnight, but the start battery remains charged.
Not sure about switching between, I believe one position will operate that system, as well as the preferentual charging, but you can manually combine both if needed...........be interesting to see what you get out of reading the info on google...

Col

[Yota]

Thanks Col I will need to read up more ( I should have already before installing ).
I just wired it all up - including the 4 way battery isolation switch.
The VSR I got from Jaycar has 2 optional wires, from memory -
1 is a manual enable/disable which can be hooked up to the engine start/run circuit at the engine keys with, so instead as suggested in the install schematics I've hooked up an additional small switch next to the battery switch using this same enable/disable wire to disable the unit when the boat is not in use. Because after I hooked it all up I noticed there was a led turned on the VSR after I heard the VSR relay click. I want to be sure nothing drains power while the boat is in storage and kills the batteries.
The other optional wire is for a dash mounted LED to indicate when the VSR is enabled. I didn't use that one.
I'll investigate more to be 100% sure it's all kosher.
Thanks.

[Yota]

Found the answer here, thanks for the prompt Col, https://www.bluesea.com/support/article ... uit_System

I currently have the setup shown at the top of the page - with the 3 stud isolation switch.
I will need to upgrade to a 4 pole switch shown below in the link, to remove the issues I spoke about 4 posts above.

Quote from the link " There is a problem with this arrangement, however. The switching sequence must be remembered and followed, every time. When charging of both batteries is desired, it is necessary to move the switch to the 1+2 position. If the switch is not moved back to the 1 or 2 position, and house loads are being used heavily, both batteries can be drained. Since there is only a 1-volt difference between a fully charged battery and a depleted one, it doesn’t take much".

Oh well, a few more $$ should sort it out.

[blacklab99]

Glad your getting it sorted Jamie.
You are now the guinea pig mate, I expect a full report back on your findings once all sorted LOL

Tell me, where do you get your connectors ?
Just called into Jay's and super cheap, but there all crap aluminium ones, I want the tin plated versions......
Did you use the ones with the glue heat shrink ? I was thinking of using those, there's a crowd on ebay that supply these along with other bits and bobs, I just found the local stores pretty well only cater for auto. Someone said to me to use the double crimp connector versions, bare ones, then use the double sheathed glue version heat shrink, easier said than done when looking around.
I'll probably just use the single crimp, with the insulation heat shrink already on them, seems to be all I can find, WAY cheaper on line from the marine supplier as well I might add for all of the types of connectors,,, interesting exercise all the same.........

Col

[Yota]

No worries Col,
Connectors, the larger lug connectors I've used are always tin coated copper and sourced them from various places, same as you've mentioned.
The smaller gauge crimp connections, I still have a stash I "sourced" from my previous employer Kodak, some 15 years ago. They closed down the big factory so I think I'm in the clear now.
Maybe try an electrical supplier, Middys, L & H, one of those, they might have the tin plated ones ? Or Blackwoods/JBS RS Components,,,
I haven't used the ones with heat shrink, mainly because again I have a good stash of various heat shrink colours and sizes, most without glue, some with. I tend to only use heat shrink if it's required, so not always.
Double crimp ? I'm not 100% sure what that refers to, unless it's refers to the tool being made for either insulated or uninsulated lugs ?
The insulated crimp tool I have has double crimp faces (side by side) the tool I have for uninsulated crimp lugs only has the one crimp face pair, sorry if that's confusing,,
Sounds to me like you know what you need and what you need to do so good work.

[blacklab99]

Just an update, Nothing really to show........
Trying to master this " witch doctor" stuff called Soldering.........
Could show some absolute disasterous attempts, but have improved some what, still not presentable LOL

Sorted out the double crimp lugs, found them at super cheap. The principle of them, is, they have an extra longer flared piece at the back end which, the wire fits up inside the flare ( un stripped part ) so when using the "double toothed " Crimper, the back end of the lug, gets crimped as well ( slightly less pressure) which crimps down on the sheath of the wire. this gives extra strain relief, especially for spade type lugs which get removed occasionally, well, that's how it was explained to me..... I do like them...
Anyways, should get a bit done over the next week or so, so I'll post up a pick.....
Single heat shrink lugs, it's recommended you don't use the double Crimp tool, as they say it can damage the heat shrink. I've used my double type one on single insulated, not heat shrink lugs with out an issue........

Col

[blacklab99]

progress.

[Bugatti]

Place heat shrink** onto cable then strip insulation to required Length then crimp conductor in place and solder, then, crimp onto insulation and heat shrink onto terminal - Job done

heat shrink** - You can buy heat shrink with adhesive inside it - Makes for better seal.

Improve soldering skills by practicing on scrap wire and terminals.

The amount of times I have forgotten to put the heat shrink on the wire/cable first Then it's start all over, and another crimp conductor/connector.

I try and get that heat shrink (not sure what it's called) but it's twice the thickness AND it shrinks to a quarter of it's size/diameter (rather than the one that is thinner AND only shrinks to half the size)

Jaycar is where I get mine


Cheers, Bugs