Dodgy fuel

[Sinsemilla]

How much fuel do you use each trip?

Might be an issue with E10 overtime.

E10 is fine as long as you go through it regularly ie a daily driven car or on a boat where you are using most of the fuel every week.

Not the fuel you want to use if it is going to be sitting around though or only going through 10% of the tank every week.

I don't use e10 . I use 91 octane

In the bay i use at max 30 litres often around 20 litres

Wolly why do you use the cheapest fuel? Use a better quality fuel (Shell, BP, Mobile) and use 95. With how much you use a boat the savings aren't worth the headaches

[Wolly Bugger]

How much fuel do you use each trip?

Might be an issue with E10 overtime.

E10 is fine as long as you go through it regularly ie a daily driven car or on a boat where you are using most of the fuel every week.

Not the fuel you want to use if it is going to be sitting around though or only going through 10% of the tank every week.

I don't use e10 . I use 91 octane

In the bay i use at max 30 litres often around 20 litres

Wolly why do you use the cheapest fuel? Use a better quality fuel (Shell, BP, Mobile) and use 95. With how much you use a boat the savings aren't worth the headaches

I pretty much always use Bp or woolies.

[frozenpod]

I use quicksilver or yamalube in the 130Hp carby 2 stroke yamaha. If you buy in bulk it is cheap.

If you want to try other brands make sure it is the correct specification for your engine, most carby 2 strokes will be TC-W3 but the direct injection 2 strokes (Etecs) require higher grades.

PS some 2 stroke experts involved in racing believe a mix of synthetic and caster oil is the best option for performance and protection of your motor.

The whole caster oil is good theory is just old school thinking. It leaves deposits and stinks. Its the same with engine oils. Fully synthetic is always better. Pretty much all synthetic oils are TC-WIII and can be used in both pre-mixed and oil-injected engines.

I think we could have some interesting conversations about this topic. As for deposits gumming up as we called it, it was only a problem if your tune is too rich or you have left over oil sitting in your engine. To avoid this problem we used to run motors out of fuel and use after run fuel with normal oil in them.


In a 4 stroke fully synthetic oil has longer life and higher temperature rating. I use ful syn and have done for years in 4 stroke motors.

But for a 2 stroke given the life of oil in a 2 strokes is fractions of seconds the main fully synthetic benefits don't apply.

When the 130hp yam was new I used yamalube as it was required for warranty. Since out of warranty I have used quicksilver oil claims to be the cleanest burning and it certainly produces less smoke and odor. Whilst at idle on the muffs you cant see any smoke in the exhaust at all.

[blacklab99]

I use quicksilver or yamalube in the 130Hp carby 2 stroke yamaha. If you buy in bulk it is cheap.

If you want to try other brands make sure it is the correct specification for your engine, most carby 2 strokes will be TC-W3 but the direct injection 2 strokes (Etecs) require higher grades.

PS some 2 stroke experts involved in racing believe a mix of synthetic and caster oil is the best option for performance and protection of your motor.

The whole caster oil is good theory is just old school thinking. It leaves deposits and stinks. Its the same with engine oils. Fully synthetic is always better. Pretty much all synthetic oils are TC-WIII and can be used in both pre-mixed and oil-injected engines.

Whilst in relatively newish out board engines, 100 % agree.
BUT, it isn't just an old school theory at all, along with in some instances, fully synthetic in some engines, is definately not the way to go.
It's horses for courses, DEPENDANT on what engine you refer to, but since we are talking about outboards, is relevant.
For instance, Engines with sludge traps in the crankshaft for filtration purposes, don't want a fully synthetic high base detergent oil.
Frozen is correct in 2 stroke racing engines, and some 4 stroke, still use a castrol oil mix.......
Sometimes old school thinking, has good merit...


Col

[Sinsemilla]

I use quicksilver or yamalube in the 130Hp carby 2 stroke yamaha. If you buy in bulk it is cheap.

If you want to try other brands make sure it is the correct specification for your engine, most carby 2 strokes will be TC-W3 but the direct injection 2 strokes (Etecs) require higher grades.

PS some 2 stroke experts involved in racing believe a mix of synthetic and caster oil is the best option for performance and protection of your motor.

The whole caster oil is good theory is just old school thinking. It leaves deposits and stinks. Its the same with engine oils. Fully synthetic is always better. Pretty much all synthetic oils are TC-WIII and can be used in both pre-mixed and oil-injected engines.

I think we could have some interesting conversations about this topic. As for deposits gumming up as we called it, it was only a problem if your tune is too rich or you have left over oil sitting in your engine. To avoid this problem we used to run motors out of fuel and use after run fuel with normal oil in them.


In a 4 stroke fully synthetic oil has longer life and higher temperature rating. I use ful syn and have done for years in 4 stroke motors.

But for a 2 stroke given the life of oil in a 2 strokes is fractions of seconds the main fully synthetic benefits don't apply.

When the 130hp yam was new I used yamalube as it was required for warranty. Since out of warranty I have used quicksilver oil claims to be the cleanest burning and it certainly produces less smoke and odor. Whilst at idle on the muffs you cant see any smoke in the exhaust at all.

With cars and bikes you tune to whatever ratio you are using and can get it fine most times. With an outboard people rarely tune them. A fully synthetic oil will burn cleaner and most times has better protection and anti corrosion properties. Also these fully synthetic oils I'm talking about, some are biodegradable and better for the environment.

I've heard that caster is good for racing using methanol, Is it for better ring seal which obviously means more power? The engines get hotter which is why the methanol is used to help in cooling the engine? (I'm not 100%) and it just might be but most of the engines we are talking about aren't being raced which means most times they aren't even getting hot enough to burn the oils off which causes all the smoke and smell/carbon build up.

[purple5ive]

you cannot just tune most modern motor vehicles that are OEM. unless aftermarket stuff is involved, so many just run whatever OEM recommends .
carbys are a whole different story.

i am running whats been recommended by the OEM. im just out of warranty period soon on my outboard, the minion with horns is telling me to do some silly things (ITBs and associated mods) but i think ill keep it OEM for now..

as for the fuel issues, ill stick to 98ron and use Mercury 2 stroke oil as its easily available to me for now

[blacklab99]

Methanol, is used for one reason, POWER and POWER alone.
It is less dense than normal fuel,from memory 114 octane rating, requires less air ratio and makes more power per stroke,
That's the only reason its used for racing.
Different tuning of course.
My old British racer, was on methanol, running castrol, a synthetic oil would have caused all the carbon build up to be circulated through out the engine, they didn't have good or modern filtering systems, we wanted the carbon crap to stay lodged in the centrifugal type crank filter, which was called a sludge tube, detergents shifted this and hence caused huge issues. we used return line add on filters only. The engine ran cleaner on methanol,and using castrol oil, so I believe that's a myth to say Castrol was a dirtier oil than modern detergent oils, they work dependant on engine type, most modern engines call for partical's to be held in suspension, which intern eventually becomes unusable, but not all engines have always called for this.
That's just my take on it from my experience.

Col

[smile0784]

I think you will find all United fuel has ethanol content.

My motor doesn't like it then

Possible my problem also then lol

[Sinsemilla]

you cannot just tune most modern motor vehicles that are OEM. unless aftermarket stuff is involved, so many just run whatever OEM recommends .
carbys are a whole different story.

i am running whats been recommended by the OEM. im just out of warranty period soon on my outboard, the minion with horns is telling me to do some silly things (ITBs and associated mods) but i think ill keep it OEM for now..

as for the fuel issues, ill stick to 98ron and use Mercury 2 stroke oil as its easily available to me for now

You can tune any carb. EFI needs special tools and equipment.

[Kimtown]

Nothing but Shell/BP (prefer BP if I have the option though, every time) for any of my engine products. That's car, boat, bikes, lawn mower, whipper snipper, chain saw... heard too many bad stories about United to even bother.

Unfortunately since my boat is half my old man's and he is old school as anything, it gets filled with United 91 at least 50% of the time. Oh well. He can pay for the new injectors when they inevitably **** up.