Fishing Victoria Forum

I bought my pre-loved seagrass green compass in December 22 and have been out half a dozen times, so still quite new to the caper.

If you’re going to be car topping, I would say the compass loader is a must have!
Rectangular hatch and side bros for storage. You have the option of transferring round hatch to bow.
Sand wheel cart is the way to go for beach launching… wish I had one as I have the heavy duty one which is no good in soft sand.
I just added an anchor, anchor trolley and a set of seat risers to my long list of accessories as I found I’ve drifted off the bite zone a few times….even at Clifton Springs.

Other accessories I have include:
- sounder/battery
- lovig cover
- heavy duty small catch bag (fits perfectly)
- ceiling hoist
- bilge pump
- compass drink holder fixer
- bumper bro

My sounder came with the kayak and I only really use to gauge my depth. So yeah not really necessary for shallow whiting and squid fishing.

Hope this helps and good luck!

That's a great recommendation there Lenny - checked out a few youtube vids of hobie kayak car topping and that loader looks like a lifesaver.

Agreed on the rectangle hatch, and the sand wheels. I'll see how I go with the seat risers, mate with the newer compass reckons they might not be necessary but an easy fix if needed once I get the yak.

Much appreciated mate!

Andrews wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 01, 2023 1:05 pm

Sebb wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 01, 2023 12:13 pm

Andrews wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 01, 2023 10:03 am

Thanks everyone for the prompt replies and advice so far, genuinely appreciate the recommendations.

The plan is for a roof-top kayak to punch out off Clifton Springs 2-5m depth, chasing calamari, king George, flathead, etc.

I feel that spending a little more on extras and investing in items that'll improve the quality of life, longevity, protect the kayak and improve safety are key.

The Hobie Mirage Compass kayak;
- I'll be looking to go the second hand route, newer model in either papaya or seagrass for greatest visibility.
- Looking at the 180KU model.
- I'll probs do this through AWS and see if they can hook me up with a deal for the kayak, extra and installs.

Upgrades:
- Rectangle Hatch
- Rectangle gear bucket
- BerleyPro Sidebros
- BerleyPro BumperBro Keel Guard
- Hobie Sidekick Ama Kit
- High visibility flag
- Track mounted rod holder
- Anchor
-Coiled Leashes
- Decent esky

- Drift chute ( will decide once I get experience fishing the tides and determine if necessary).
- Sounder ( Won't be needing for what I'm looking to do)

It's a tough one isn't Hatetangles!
All these options but it's definitely worth working through!

Again, genuinely do appreciate everyones experiences and advice!

I've fished Clifton Springs on kayak few times. Sounder isn't essential there for squid and kgw, as you can see where the weeds and the sand holes are. But good to have.

I have drift chute and anchor trolley, rarely use them in PPB, as not much current and I don't go out when its super windy anyway. Drifting during low wind is good.
When I bait fish, or when its a bit windy, I use anchor and with the anchor trolley.

Yeah, that's my thinking too. There is always the option to pick up a sounder later down the track.

Realistically I don't feel that I'd needing a drift chute, however the anchor is a good investment if I'm keen to anchor up for some kgw / flatties on bait. Still working through plenty of youtube vids etc to see what other people are using.

Using an anchor trolley properly can make anchoring much safer, particularly when it gets choppy or when tidal flow is present. I have a full length anchor trolley, with a cam cleat next to my seat. For the anchor line I use some 4mm? Rope that came on a dive reel, with a float attached to the reel. Once I have the anchor down and enough line out, I pull some slack of the anchor line to form a loop, then feed it through one of the anchor trolley rings (usually the further back ring). Slip that loop of line into the cam cleat locking the line in place, then feed the anchor trolley ring back toward the rear of the kayak. This anchors the kayak from the rear, and gives the ability to drop anchor almost instantly by flicking the loop of rope up out of the cleat, the loop then pulls itself through the anchor trolley ring, now the kayak is free of the anchor. When disconnected from the anchor I let the dive reel free spool (or you can wind out more line if using a hand line style spool), let more line out while I turn the kayak around, then pedal toward the anchor while reeling in the slack line. I feel this is a safe way to anchor, as when the anchor line is tied off to a point closer to the seat without a trolley, the kayak is likely to end up side-on to chop or tide, greatly increasing the chance of going for an unplanned swim. Having the ability to quickly disconnect from the anchor, then retrieve it later can be advantageous when needing to suddenly move quickly. This could be to give chase to a good fish around reefy areas, get out of the path of a drifting boat or to render immediate assistance to someone spotted in the water.
Sorry for the essay, but if it can make someone’s life easier or safer I am happy to write it.

That's a great point there Tim and I hadn't even considered an anchor trolley - definitely going to have to looking further into them.
Definitely going a quick release route on the anchor with a float on the line near the break away if was to happen.
Great tips there!

I'd add an insulated fish bag, getting your catch into the front hatch requires a certain level of acrobatics
I wouldn't go bigger than 50cm - or else would be difficult to store (behind you) and manoeuvre.
Leash everything you don't want to lose

Sneaky1 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 05, 2023 9:39 pm

I'd add an insulated fish bag, getting your catch into the front hatch requires a certain level of acrobatics
I wouldn't go bigger than 50cm - or else would be difficult to store (behind you) and manoeuvre.
Leash everything you don't want to lose

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll be rocking a decent esky/ ice box behind the seat, I think that'll be more practical for me
That and a longer net, i think an extended reach won't go unappreciated!

Andrews wrote: ↑

Sun Aug 06, 2023 9:59 am

Sneaky1 wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 05, 2023 9:39 pm

I'd add an insulated fish bag, getting your catch into the front hatch requires a certain level of acrobatics
I wouldn't go bigger than 50cm - or else would be difficult to store (behind you) and manoeuvre.
Leash everything you don't want to lose

Yeah, I'm thinking I'll be rocking a decent esky/ ice box behind the seat, I think that'll be more practical for me
That and a longer net, i think an extended reach won't go unappreciated!

Yes for a longer-handled net, somehow manufacturers believe a yak net doesn't need a shaft at all!
Even with shorter rods ~6'6", a 500mm long handle is needed.

I absolutely agree, that additional reach will be amazing, looking at the Berkley telescopic net as my potential pick.

Thanks everyone,

I ended up pulling the trigger on the Hobie Compass 22, MD180 with turbo, for $3990 + $300 store credit.

I also priced in a few extras which they were able to discount as a package.
- Hobie Rectangle Hatch
- Hobie Anchor Trolley
- Hobie Trax Cart
- Berley Pro Bucket
- Berley Pro Bumper Bro
- RB Rod Holder

Keen to try this out over the next few weeks!

Congratulations on your purchase mate.
Look forward to hearing your first kayak fishing report.