Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

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Davidsch1
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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 3:32 pm

frozenpod wrote: Tiagra 50WLRSA will do everything the 80W they have the same drag and are essentially the same reel apart from the 80W being heavier and having a larger diameter spool. ie the 80W can hold more line.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the 80W had more drag that the 50?? :victory:

I thought the 50 was 20kg drag, and the 80 was 24kg? Sorry, maybe I've got it wrong.

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 3:32 pm

smile0784 wrote:Do you already have any game gear or yiu just starting your collection?
Just starting! :a_goodjob:

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 3:36 pm

smile0784 wrote:Do you already have any game gear or yiu just starting your collection?
I have heaps of offshore and onshore gear, my most favourite being my Penn 10500 spin reel.

Our new Quintrex Yellowfin 7600 HT will be arriving in the next month or two (still in building stage at the factory), so we are looking at game gear.

We already have a Shimano TLD 50 2 Speed overhead reel on a 24kg rod which is fully rollered. Currently spooled with either 50 or 60lb mono (can't remember off the top of my head)

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by blacklab99 » Sat May 13, 2017 4:04 pm

I'm hearing a lot about the Avet's from the U.S scene, but no experience.
I honestly couldn't state the drag differences between 50-80 models of either Penn or tiagra, I'm pickin they both do the job nicely.
I guess I personally have to confess here, I mean, I'd have another Tiagra any day, but as mentioned, I have two Penn 50's at the minute.
But, I've always had this thing for old Penn senator reels. I fished with the 4/0 and the 6/0 30 odd years back, I mean they were the bee's knees back then, now those size reels are all Asian made, not that I'm biased to the fact. So, since my boats been hospitalised over recent times, my damn obsession for the old senators has now seen me aquire, 4 more 6/0's, I've changed the drag system over,swapped to stainless internal bearings, fitted the one piece tiburnion frames, these things are bullet proof. Then I found a wide body version, you guessed it, I had to do one of them !
Bottom line is, that once the boats back up and running, these reels will be amongst my spread, either at Portland or bermi, and I'd have the utmost confidence, what ever was hooked up, they will cope. and yes, I have an addiction LOL
Bottom line, as I say it again, its a lot of dollars setting up a full boat load of game gear, but there are options !

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by frozenpod » Sat May 13, 2017 4:13 pm

Davidsch1 wrote:
frozenpod wrote:
For 37kg stand up gear you ideally want bent butt rods with a length of 5ft. Long butts and short rods..... Make sure the roller tip is quality and has a small gap on the sides to prevent the braid going down the side.
Can I ask why you recommend bent butts? The reason I ask is because the way I understand it, is that unless you are vertical fishing (like for swords) or unless you are using a game chair, the bent butt rods can be more straining to work with if you are standing with a harness. Please correct me if I am wrong, but that seems to be the impression I get from talking to a few guys who regularly gear up for game fishing.
Bent butts allow you to put approximately 30% more drag on the fish for the same load on the person holding onto a rod.

With 37kg gear using 18kg of drag is almost impossible without bent butts. Most people will be pulled over with 12-15kg.

If you were local I can easily provide a demonstration of the difference between bent butt and straight butt rods, (there are probably articles or videos on youtube).
You might be able to do a test in a local tackle shop, put on a quality harness ie black magic Equalizer and see how much drag it takes to pull you over with straight vs bent butts.
Davidsch1 wrote: Also if I go hollow core 130 lb braid, then the rollers shouldn't be an issue then, correct? I believe that the hollow core braid is of similar thickness to mono, so if mono glides through the tip rollers without slipping down the side of the roller, then wouldn't 130lb hollow core braid? ;)

I went past BCF this morning and had a look at their Tiagra 50 WLRSA. They seem like a reasonably decent size reel - not sure how much 130lb hollow braid it would hold though (maybe I could go a little less lb with the hollow to allow for more yardage). I've seen the 130W, but not the 80W, so I'm assuming the 80W is somewhere inbetween the 50 and the 130.
Rollers require lots of maintenance. I have rods with Silicon Carbide guides and other rods which are fully rollered and I wouldn't both with rollers again except for the tip. The newer guide materials have super low friction, cheaper and require zero maintenance. Keep in mind nothing worse than a seized roller (it happens to everyone at some point).

130lb hollow braid will still be thinner than 80lb mono but it can be pushed up to slide 80lb mono up the inside ie finger trap connection.

The other alternative is to use 100lb and splice a look and tie a loop via plat or bimmi in the mono.

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by frozenpod » Sat May 13, 2017 4:23 pm

Davidsch1 wrote:
frozenpod wrote: Tiagra 50WLRSA will do everything the 80W they have the same drag and are essentially the same reel apart from the 80W being heavier and having a larger diameter spool. ie the 80W can hold more line.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I thought the 80W had more drag that the 50?? :victory:

I thought the 50 was 20kg drag, and the 80 was 24kg? Sorry, maybe I've got it wrong.
They both have the same drag as in the physical components inside the reel that provides the resistance. The 80W is quoted to provide 24kg of drag whilst the 50WLRSA is quoted to provide 20kg. (99% marketing)

Both can provide much more drag but it is irrelevant as even if you were built like Arnie you wont be able to apply more drag without a game chair and specific game chair rod. Have a go with a harness and see for yourself.

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by ncr1 » Sat May 13, 2017 4:27 pm

Firstly, congratulations on the recent 7.6m purchase! Bloody exciting time for you I would imagine?!

I’m currently writing up a detailed post about game rod selection in my Portland tuna thread, but it will probably take a week or so to finish it (writing can be very slow when I go into a lot of detail).

But in the meantime, I can offer a few thoughts to begin with. When you think about it, the fundamental ‘tasks’ that you want your game outfit to achieve are a) to present a bait or lure as naturally as possible (e.g. a rod that flexes too much might have to much ‘flick’ in its action to properly troll big lures), b) to provide enough backbone to properly set the hook when a fish strikes (again, a rod that is too flexible may not be the best for setting a hook into a hard marlin bill), c) once the fish is hooked, the outfit needs to be reliable enough to use sunset drag over long-periods (see my latest Portland thread post) and retrieve line as quick as possible when needed, and d) the outfit needs to be as comfortable to use so that you, the angler, can genuinely lean back against the pull of maximum sunset drag without having to see a chiropractor the next day. Someone let me know if I have missed anything here…..

The trouble with these ‘tasks’ is that there isn’t a single outfit that comes out on top with each and every requirement. Everything about outfit selection is a compromise. For example, a soft, flexible rod is likely to be poor at trolling big lures and may struggle to hook up if it does get a strike. Yet, if you choose a stiffer, less flexible rod to improve your hook up rate, you might be spending the next hour or two bent over the gunnel and unable to comfortably ‘lean back’ while you’re fighting a big fish. Finding the correct balance can be a very hard thing to do.

The difficulty with I find with your situation Dave, is that you’re covering a few different scenarios, marlin, swords and tuna. I don’t believe that the most suitable outfit for barrel tuna would be the most suitable outfit for marlin. Chasing swords is another style of fishing altogether. As an example (and I might ruffle a few feathers here), but the Tiagra T-curve rods are a terrible choice for big tuna (just my opinion that I will try and justify my thoughts in my next Portland thread post). T-curves were designed for Shimano by Ian Miller, with mainly the east-coast marlin fishery in mind. Ian used a much stiffer design to differentiate them from many of the other standup rods that were popular at the time (Sabre rods for example). The stiffness allows them to better troll big pusher lures and also improve hook up rates on hard-billed marlin. The stiffer design also helps when retrieving line in a hurry when a feisty marlin is scooting across the surface. The ‘T’ actually stands for Trolling-curve. Unfortunately, the compromise when using T-curves is when a big fish decides to slog it out down deep (as with most barrel tuna), your back will be yelling out for a softer rod.

Like I said, I’ll go into more detail in my next post and talk about the relative advantages and disadvantages of rod stiffness, length, and componentry. I hope that can give you some more guidance in your search.

As for the question about the 80W, I assume that you won’t have a game-chair and will be planning to fish standup? If so, then I would suggest staying away from the 80W unless you really need to be fishing >20-25kg (or more) of drag (which can be achieved on standup with the right gear and methods). Otherwise they’re a massive, heavy, awkward and generally uncomfortable piece of metal to be connected to.

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 7:01 pm

frozenpod wrote: Bent butts allow you to put approximately 30% more drag on the fish for the same load on the person holding onto a rod.

With 37kg gear using 18kg of drag is almost impossible without bent butts. Most people will be pulled over with 12-15kg.

If you were local I can easily provide a demonstration of the difference between bent butt and straight butt rods, (there are probably articles or videos on youtube).
You might be able to do a test in a local tackle shop, put on a quality harness ie black magic Equalizer and see how much drag it takes to pull you over with straight vs bent butts.
Thanks for that info!! It seems everyone I've spoken to have pointed out that the bent butts are for vertical fishing and for chair fishing, but no one has ever explained it like you have! :r

I'll definitely try and get an actual feel and demo on both to feel and see the comparison! I'm guessing its similar to this clip on Youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Mb-0clS-H4

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 7:05 pm

ncr1 wrote: As for the question about the 80W, I assume that you won’t have a game-chair and will be planning to fish standup? If so, then I would suggest staying away from the 80W unless you really need to be fishing >20-25kg (or more) of drag (which can be achieved on standup with the right gear and methods). Otherwise they’re a massive, heavy, awkward and generally uncomfortable piece of metal to be connected to.
I think you've nearly convinced me to go for the 50WLRSA rather than the 80WA! Thanks for that!

I've been reading your posts on the tuna fishing!! Amazing wealth of knowledge both you and frozenpod have!! I'll be looking out for the next post! :thumbsup:

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Re: Rod/Reel setup for game fishing

Post by Davidsch1 » Sat May 13, 2017 7:11 pm

Does Powerpro do a hollow core 130lb? I can't seem to find any here in Australia (unless I get it from overseas). It's about $500 for 1500 yards.
Any other recommendations for hollow core braid otherwise?

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