Not the one i put in lolrb85 wrote:A lot of switch panels have fuses in series with each individual switch.
Getting on with boat re-build
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
Was that by choice? The fused switch panel are practical.smile0784 wrote:Not the one i put in lolrb85 wrote:A lot of switch panels have fuses in series with each individual switch.
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
No problem mate.blacklab99 wrote:Thanks RB,
Appreciated............
As mentioned, collecting parts at the minute.
Col
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
It was.one i had in the shed lolrb85 wrote:Was that by choice? The fused switch panel are practical.smile0784 wrote:Not the one i put in lolrb85 wrote:A lot of switch panels have fuses in series with each individual switch.
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
Att Brains trust,
I ordered two of the 6 switch fused panels. I was working out how many switches I needed, and once you start adding up the likes of,
Nav lights, anchor light, back led spotty, Led deck strip lights, cabin light, deck wash, that's 6 already !.
Still have front spotty, live bait tank, Bilge pump and maybe led lights around that area. So apart from that, will have some spare switches over.
Now, previous wiring set up, had a switch up front which killed all power at the helm, I suppose that was a fail safe for all the items that had there own on/off switch ?, I thought that the main battery switch at the back, turned to "0" would shut down all power.
So my question, is it worth while, or prudent, to have the sounders (2) and the radios (2), run thru the switch panels even though they have there own on/off switches ?????? I didn't know the practicality of it, or if there was any advantage, I will have a few spare circuits on the second panel. Even if it was just one switch only for the two sounders and the same for marine radios....? I wasn't going to bother having the main kill switch for the helm area again...........
Col
I ordered two of the 6 switch fused panels. I was working out how many switches I needed, and once you start adding up the likes of,
Nav lights, anchor light, back led spotty, Led deck strip lights, cabin light, deck wash, that's 6 already !.
Still have front spotty, live bait tank, Bilge pump and maybe led lights around that area. So apart from that, will have some spare switches over.
Now, previous wiring set up, had a switch up front which killed all power at the helm, I suppose that was a fail safe for all the items that had there own on/off switch ?, I thought that the main battery switch at the back, turned to "0" would shut down all power.
So my question, is it worth while, or prudent, to have the sounders (2) and the radios (2), run thru the switch panels even though they have there own on/off switches ?????? I didn't know the practicality of it, or if there was any advantage, I will have a few spare circuits on the second panel. Even if it was just one switch only for the two sounders and the same for marine radios....? I wasn't going to bother having the main kill switch for the helm area again...........
Col
Re: Getting on with boat re-build
no need mate and if anything could only cause more issues in future. most elec issues comes from joints or connections, as long as its fused either in line or preferably back at a stand alone fuse panel. so the less joins/ connections the better.
just use the on off buttons on the radio/sounder
just use the on off buttons on the radio/sounder
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
No need to run the sounder ect through the switch panel.
I ran it through the switch panel on the first boat I rewired but not the second.
Just make sure there is an inline fuse.
I ran it through the switch panel on the first boat I rewired but not the second.
Just make sure there is an inline fuse.
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
Cheers Guys,
Frozen, when you re wired yours, did yours prior or your rewire have an isolation switch for the helm electronics ?.
Mine wiring, while it had been tinkered with, a lot, was original by the looks, non tinned wire, and it was much later I noticed a switch out of site, which I found it completely killed every thing at the helm. ???
I note, I never actually ever used it, but could understand the reason why.....
But wasn't intending to reciprocate it....
Col
Frozen, when you re wired yours, did yours prior or your rewire have an isolation switch for the helm electronics ?.
Mine wiring, while it had been tinkered with, a lot, was original by the looks, non tinned wire, and it was much later I noticed a switch out of site, which I found it completely killed every thing at the helm. ???
I note, I never actually ever used it, but could understand the reason why.....
But wasn't intending to reciprocate it....
Col
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
Col I would suggest a dual battery system with a selector switch and VSR voltage sensitive relay which will automatically switch between batteries when they are being charged. For general use designate 1 battery for or your equipment etc and use the other in reserve to start your motor.
Theres plenty of quality selector switches etc.
This isn't the exact system I am talking about but you get the idea.
https://www.bluesea.com/systems/39/Manu ... _SubSystem
Theres plenty of quality selector switches etc.
This isn't the exact system I am talking about but you get the idea.
https://www.bluesea.com/systems/39/Manu ... _SubSystem
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Re: Getting on with boat re-build
Yep, exactly what I'm getting RB, Had a twin battery system before, so I will reciprocate all of that.rb85 wrote:Col I would suggest a dual battery system with a selector switch and VSR voltage sensitive relay which will automatically switch between batteries when they are being charged. For general use designate 1 battery for or your equipment etc and use the other in reserve to start your motor.
Theres plenty of quality selector switches etc.
This isn't the exact system I am talking about but you get the idea.
https://www.bluesea.com/systems/39/Manu ... _SubSystem
Cheers
Col