Working with Wire 101
- Brett
- Moderator
- Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:23 am
- Location: Mornington Peninsula
- Has liked: 138 times
- Likes received: 223 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
yeah that will do fine, I've dragged plenty of 50 to 80kg gilla's in with 60 to 100lb. Just watch where the sinker stops at the crimp, if you get an angry bugga that wants to flip and jump around at the waters edge or on the sand, it will hurt like buggery if it smacks you anywhere.
Re: Working with Wire 101
Hi Guys
I'm more an entry level hack at wire and crimping, but I have been doing it for a while, nothing to get a gold medal over but they work and I haven't had one go on me yet.
What I use are:
Wire Crimp packs (with nylon/plastic coated stainless wire (90 lb) and crimps included)
Crimping Pliers
Heat Shrink. I recommend the one that shrinks to 1/4 of is size , it is thicker too. The other one only shrinks to half and is thinner.
A "blow torch" type lighter. You get better heat for the heat shrink.
Scissors (for the Electrical/Electronic Heat Shrink)
The Crimping Pliers.
A tube of Heat Shrink on first (diameter and length to suit), then the crimp tube, then the Hook or Swivel. The "fold over" (loop length) shouldn't be greater than it needs as the tighter it is the better the Crimp would hold the loop. But should be long enough so that the loop allows the hook or swivel movement. I like a little bit of the wire end to poke out the bottom, so that the crimp has full length grab on the wire and the poking out bit of the wire acts like a "tab" to help with the wire not pulling through once crimped.
To poke the "end bit" back through the crimp tube can be difficultly tight. I flatten the diameter of the crimp tube to an oval shape so that the two wire thicknesses can fit through together. I do this with the green or blue part of the pliers. If you press too hard in the green part, it can flatten the tube too much, where as the blue part is less likely to. So once the hollow in the crimp is oval shaped, slide the crimp onto the doubled over wire (loop).
The Crimping part of the Crimping Pliers is the yellow part. Have the crimp with wire through it in the groove of the yellow part BUT taking care that both sides of the wires are on ether side of the groove. This allows the round anvil part of the crimp to press in between the two strands. This gives a stronger Crimp. You will notice the groove indent on one side of the Crimp and not the other side. Repeat this with the indented part of the Crimp now facing in the groove, this will allow the other side of the Crimp to get indented.
Slide the Heat Shrink over the Crimp and making sure the "tab" is covered to. Heat till it shrinks. You shall notice the heat shrink tube "shrinking" and tightening over the crimp and wire. Please note the more you heat it, it won't keep shrinking but rather, it is going to start melting. That is why the heat shrink that shrinks to 1/4 size, is better.
Pretso
Now obviously, you can use which ever swivel and hook that you choose. The decent simple ones suffice me.
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Like I said in the beginning, I'm an entry level hack BUT this works for me
Cheers Bugatti
I'm more an entry level hack at wire and crimping, but I have been doing it for a while, nothing to get a gold medal over but they work and I haven't had one go on me yet.
What I use are:
Wire Crimp packs (with nylon/plastic coated stainless wire (90 lb) and crimps included)
Crimping Pliers
Heat Shrink. I recommend the one that shrinks to 1/4 of is size , it is thicker too. The other one only shrinks to half and is thinner.
A "blow torch" type lighter. You get better heat for the heat shrink.
Scissors (for the Electrical/Electronic Heat Shrink)
The Crimping Pliers.
A tube of Heat Shrink on first (diameter and length to suit), then the crimp tube, then the Hook or Swivel. The "fold over" (loop length) shouldn't be greater than it needs as the tighter it is the better the Crimp would hold the loop. But should be long enough so that the loop allows the hook or swivel movement. I like a little bit of the wire end to poke out the bottom, so that the crimp has full length grab on the wire and the poking out bit of the wire acts like a "tab" to help with the wire not pulling through once crimped.
To poke the "end bit" back through the crimp tube can be difficultly tight. I flatten the diameter of the crimp tube to an oval shape so that the two wire thicknesses can fit through together. I do this with the green or blue part of the pliers. If you press too hard in the green part, it can flatten the tube too much, where as the blue part is less likely to. So once the hollow in the crimp is oval shaped, slide the crimp onto the doubled over wire (loop).
The Crimping part of the Crimping Pliers is the yellow part. Have the crimp with wire through it in the groove of the yellow part BUT taking care that both sides of the wires are on ether side of the groove. This allows the round anvil part of the crimp to press in between the two strands. This gives a stronger Crimp. You will notice the groove indent on one side of the Crimp and not the other side. Repeat this with the indented part of the Crimp now facing in the groove, this will allow the other side of the Crimp to get indented.
Slide the Heat Shrink over the Crimp and making sure the "tab" is covered to. Heat till it shrinks. You shall notice the heat shrink tube "shrinking" and tightening over the crimp and wire. Please note the more you heat it, it won't keep shrinking but rather, it is going to start melting. That is why the heat shrink that shrinks to 1/4 size, is better.
Pretso
Now obviously, you can use which ever swivel and hook that you choose. The decent simple ones suffice me.
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Like I said in the beginning, I'm an entry level hack BUT this works for me
Cheers Bugatti
Last edited by Bugatti on Tue Oct 29, 2019 7:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Rank: Premium Member
- Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2014 1:23 pm
- Has liked: 308 times
- Likes received: 318 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Thanks Bug.Bugatti wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:10 amHi Guys
I'm more an entry level hack at wire and crimping, but I have been doing it for a while, nothing to get a gold medal over but they work and I haven't had one go on me yet.
Krimpy Kreme 1.PNG
What I use are:
Wire Crimp packs (with nylon/plastic coated stainless wire (90 lb) and crimps included)
Crimping Pliers
Heat Shrink. I recommend the one that shrinks to 1/4 of is size , it is thicker too. The other one only shrinks to half and is thinner.
A "blow torch" type lighter. You get better heat for the heat shrink.
Scissors (for the Electrical/Electronic Heat Shrink)
The Crimping Pliers.
Pliers.PNG
A tube of Heat Shrink on first (diameter and length to suit), then the crimp tube, then the Hook or Swivel. The "fold over" (loop length) shouldn't be greater than it needs as the tighter it is the better the Crimp would hold the loop. But should be long enough so that the loop allows the hook or swivel movement. I like a little bit of the wire end to poke out the bottom, so that the crimp has full length grab on the wire and the poking out bit of the wire acts like a "tab" to help with the wire not pulling through once crimped.
Krimpy Kreme 2.PNG
To poke the "end bit back through the crimp tube can be difficultly tight. I flatten the diameter of the crimp tube to an oval shape so that the two wire thicknesses can fit through together. I do this with the green or blue part of the pliers. If you press to hard in the green part, it can flatten the tube too much, where as the blue part is less likely to.
The Crimping part of the Crimping Pliers is the yellow part. Have the crimp with wire through it in the groove of the yellow part BUT taking care that both sides of the wires are on ether side of the groove. This allows the round anvil part of the crimp to press in between the two strands. This gives a stronger Crimp. You will notice the groove indent on one side of the Crimp and not the other side. Repeat this with the indented part of the Crimp now facing in the groove, this will allow the other side of the Crimp to get indented.
Krimpy Kreme 3.PNG
Slide the Heat Shrink over the Crimp and making sure the "tab" is covered to. Heat till it shrinks.
Krimpy Kreme 4.PNG
Krimpy Kreme 5.PNG
Pretso
Krimpy Kreme 6.PNG
Now obviously, you can use which ever swivel and hook that you choose. The decent simple ones suffice me.
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Like I said in the beginning, I'm an entry level hack BUT this works for me
Cheers Bugatti
That’ll really help a lot of people around here with toothy things in mind
There is always more to learn , fish to catch , places to see and friends to make.
- mazman
- Rank: Murray Cod
- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2012 4:45 pm
- Has liked: 137 times
- Likes received: 455 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Have a look at the pulley rig if you want to try and get a bit more distance, much easier to cast than paternosters and it goes further tooBugatti wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:10 am
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Cheers Bugatti
Youtube channel:Hawkesy Fishing
Re: Working with Wire 101
Wow, I just googled that Pulley Rig and it looks awesome. I can see why it's called a "Pulley Rig". What a simple but ingenious way to "balance the rig" for casting and not get that "propellor thing" happening that some rigs do AND it looks like it would still be functional in the water.mazman wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 9:09 amHave a look at the pulley rig if you want to try and get a bit more distance, much easier to cast than paternosters and it goes further tooBugatti wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:10 am
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Cheers Bugatti
Thanks Alex Don and I are definitely going to give that a go on the next Salt Creek trip
Cheers, Bugatti
-
- Rank: King George Whiting
- Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 10:18 pm
- Has liked: 63 times
- Likes received: 140 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Members have made some good contributions to this post. Some members would be surprised at just what a shark can do to wire during a long fight. We ended up, after losing several sharks on 200 lb wire, settling on 400 lb braided stainless wire (not nylon coated). Even then we had a large Mako wear through this wire after an hours fight. So my advice is that if you are going to target sharks such as Bronzies I would give 80 to 100 lb trace a miss and go heavier. There are some large Bronzies in PPB and WPB and if you do hook one of these a light wire trace is likely to get bitten/worn through.
-
- Rank: Premium Member
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:16 pm
- Has liked: 39 times
- Likes received: 356 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Not bad think I'll buy a fewBrett wrote: ↑Mon Oct 28, 2019 11:33 amIt will be just as easy and probably cheaper, if just starting out to grab some pre made trace from Kev at Predator tackle.
https://www.ebay.com.au/str/predatortackle He sells a lot to the guys/girls that fish the 90 mile, I've dealt with him for hooks before and it was a quick easy transaction, no hassles.
If you want to make your own, then he sells all the components needed also
-
- Rank: Premium Member
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:16 pm
- Has liked: 39 times
- Likes received: 356 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Great advivePaulanderson wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:02 pmMembers have made some good contributions to this post. Some members would be surprised at just what a shark can do to wire during a long fight. We ended up, after losing several sharks on 200 lb wire, settling on 400 lb braided stainless wire (not nylon coated). Even then we had a large Mako wear through this wire after an hours fight. So my advice is that if you are going to target sharks such as Bronzies I would give 80 to 100 lb trace a miss and go heavier. There are some large Bronzies in PPB and WPB and if you do hook one of these a light wire trace is likely to get bitten/worn through.
-
- Rank: Premium Member
- Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:16 pm
- Has liked: 39 times
- Likes received: 356 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Looks good to me mateBugatti wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 2:10 amHi Guys
I'm more an entry level hack at wire and crimping, but I have been doing it for a while, nothing to get a gold medal over but they work and I haven't had one go on me yet.
Krimpy Kreme 1.PNG
What I use are:
Wire Crimp packs (with nylon/plastic coated stainless wire (90 lb) and crimps included)
Crimping Pliers
Heat Shrink. I recommend the one that shrinks to 1/4 of is size , it is thicker too. The other one only shrinks to half and is thinner.
A "blow torch" type lighter. You get better heat for the heat shrink.
Scissors (for the Electrical/Electronic Heat Shrink)
The Crimping Pliers.
Pliers.PNG
A tube of Heat Shrink on first (diameter and length to suit), then the crimp tube, then the Hook or Swivel. The "fold over" (loop length) shouldn't be greater than it needs as the tighter it is the better the Crimp would hold the loop. But should be long enough so that the loop allows the hook or swivel movement. I like a little bit of the wire end to poke out the bottom, so that the crimp has full length grab on the wire and the poking out bit of the wire acts like a "tab" to help with the wire not pulling through once crimped.
Krimpy Kreme 2.PNG
To poke the "end bit" back through the crimp tube can be difficultly tight. I flatten the diameter of the crimp tube to an oval shape so that the two wire thicknesses can fit through together. I do this with the green or blue part of the pliers. If you press too hard in the green part, it can flatten the tube too much, where as the blue part is less likely to. So once the hollow in the crimp is oval shaped, slide the crimp onto the doubled over wire (loop).
The Crimping part of the Crimping Pliers is the yellow part. Have the crimp with wire through it in the groove of the yellow part BUT taking care that both sides of the wires are on ether side of the groove. This allows the round anvil part of the crimp to press in between the two strands. This gives a stronger Crimp. You will notice the groove indent on one side of the Crimp and not the other side. Repeat this with the indented part of the Crimp now facing in the groove, this will allow the other side of the Crimp to get indented.
Krimpy Kreme 3.PNG
Slide the Heat Shrink over the Crimp and making sure the "tab" is covered to. Heat till it shrinks. You shall notice the heat shrink tube "shrinking" and tightening over the crimp and wire. Please note the more you heat it, it won't keep shrinking but rather, it is going to start melting. That is why the heat shrink that shrinks to 1/4 size, is better.
Krimpy Kreme 4.PNG
Krimpy Kreme 5.PNG
Pretso
Krimpy Kreme 6.PNG
Now obviously, you can use which ever swivel and hook that you choose. The decent simple ones suffice me.
The Rig that I use, is a one hook Paternoster Rig. I have tried the sinker dropper longer and also shorter than the wire leader. I found both to be equally annoying. Lets face if, fanging big baits with a big sinker with a big rod a big distance, any rig is going to give you some grief. This one suits me.
Like I said in the beginning, I'm an entry level hack BUT this works for me
Cheers Bugatti
- Brett
- Moderator
- Joined: Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:23 am
- Location: Mornington Peninsula
- Has liked: 138 times
- Likes received: 223 times
Re: Working with Wire 101
Anything that bites through light wire, you really probably aren't going to land on the general everyday spin gear, that most ppl use from the shore around the area. So in reality it's 6 of 1 half dozen of the other so to speak.Paulanderson wrote: ↑Tue Oct 29, 2019 6:02 pmMembers have made some good contributions to this post. Some members would be surprised at just what a shark can do to wire during a long fight. We ended up, after losing several sharks on 200 lb wire, settling on 400 lb braided stainless wire (not nylon coated). Even then we had a large Mako wear through this wire after an hours fight. So my advice is that if you are going to target sharks such as Bronzies I would give 80 to 100 lb trace a miss and go heavier. There are some large Bronzies in PPB and WPB and if you do hook one of these a light wire trace is likely to get bitten/worn through.
For casting 80 to probably 200lb is def usable and probably recommended(at least by me anyway).
For paddling baits out or on a boat, then yes a lot higher breaking strain is recommended. My 50w runs 50lb mono line to a 200lb mono wind on to a 200kg wire trace of 4.5m long, with a 20/0 circle hook, no way I would or could cast that.